#11 - The Way it Crumbles, Cookie Wise

Vintage winter wears, robust staples, and one very pretty watch.

Heyo folks - we’ve had a lot of new subscribers since the last free newsletter, so I want to start off by welcoming you, and giving you a little breakdown on what to expect from this article! Every 2 or so weeks I put out a free newsletter which includes three vintage finds I’m into, three of my favourite recent drops, a brand highlight, and then a few things that I’m into and wish to share with y’all (plus a playlist of some songs I’ve had on repeat). I hope you enjoy, please comment any thoughts/recommendations of your own, and thanks for joining.

Vintage Finds

A weekly segment where I highlight some slept on little nook of the 2nd hand market for you to peruse.

Braided Belts

I don’t know if I’ll ever buy a new braided belt, because there’s so many on the 2nd hand market that look great and cost nothing. Coming in a variety of colours and metals, braided belts are one of my favourite ways to add some interest to an otherwise plain outfit. I like an oversized one that hangs more than usual (pause), and you don’t have to worry as much about sizing since the buckle prong can fit anywhere along the belt.

Pringle of Scotland

One of Scotland’s premier producers of knitted garments has items all over the 2nd hand market for buck cheap. Usually executed in 100% cashmere or lambswool, you can find everything from knit sweaters, to scarves for a fraction of their MSRP. Unlike a lot of North American cashmere, you’ll find Pringle’s fibre to be ever-so-slightly rougher (while still being incredibly soft) which makes them less prone to pilling and degradation.

Aquascutum Overcoats

Stay tuned as I’ve got a heater of a newsletter coming out, dedicated entirely to overcoats, but here’s a sneak preview. If you’re after a handsome, well built, full length overcoat to wrap up 2024 look no further than an “Aquascutum” search on eBay or Etsy. Often made in Canada or England, you’ll find classic cuts of this menswear fabric that go well past the knee, unlike the wimpy bullshit you see from most modern coats.

---

Latest Releases

These are some recent drops/reveals I’m into, whether it be watches, fashion, interior design, or whatever else. As always, let me know what I missed in the comments below!

William Ellery Fall Drop

From the GOAT of playful, inventive expedition gear we’ve got some tasty new bits for Fall. William Ellery has introduced two new evergreen items into their collection, first, the Lewy trousers which have launched in two configurations: an olive stretch cotton with a reinforced seat (great for bike commutes), and a deep green 100% cotton Italian twill. With side adjusters allowing for +/-1” in the waist, a dedicated front thigh phone pocket, and a straight fit, these puppies are some of the most versatile pants around. The 2nd evergreen addition to the line is the Postal shirt available in UN Blue (100% Japanese Cotton), and BSA Green (antique Boy Scout fabric, 100% American cotton). Based on the USPS uniform shirt, W<—>E has updated the fit while keeping the reinforced shoulders. Among many other fall goodies, we saw some standout hits including their Wool hats, the Mule shirt, and of course the Quilter hat.

Lorca Model 2

When I got an email from Lorca’s founder Jesse revealing their latest creation, I nearly fell out of my chair. Following the smash hit of their inaugural time-only model, the young micro-brand dropped the best looking chronograph I have ever seen from a watch company in the last 20 years. You can quote me on that. With a 37mm case, it sits tastefully within the “mid-size” category by modern standards, and sits relatively slim at 11.2mm thick. It’s powered by a manually wound Swiss Sellita SW510 chronograph movement ensuring reliability and easy service (which can be a concern with some microbrands). But the standout feature, for me, is the machined guilloche 2-way rotating bezel in stainless steel. It reminds me of my old Thunderbird, and feels super elegant while still looking sporty. You also get a beautiful bracelet with Lorca’s signature clasp, three dial options (my favourite being silver), and lume-filled applied markers. Suffice to say, I want one.

Wanze SS25

And in sensical fashion, I feel like talking about this Spring collection at the end of October. Toronto based made-to-order brand Wanze just launched their SS25 lookbook and campaign which has me wishing for warmer weather (despite my affinity for fall dressing). There appears to be plenty of crisp, textured cotton typewriter cloth used across classifications along with (maybe) some high-density cotton nylons (based on the sheen), and maybe some tropical fresco wools. I’m loving their western pocket flap used on a lot of pant models and some outerwear, the palette feels super wearable, and I honestly fuck with their daring hits of fuchsia in a few looks. Don’t forget to check out the campaign as well, it’s both inspirational and lends further visual evidence to how those clothes are going to look and feel on-body. Bravo Wanze!

---

Brand Highlight

A weekly brand feature where I introduce you to a new brand, providing some insight into its history and stylings.

Camiel Fortgens

Today we’re looking at the up-and-coming, Amsterdam based Camiel Fortgens. Their focus is on creating unstructured, comfortable, easy to wear collections which target a variety of ages and genders. Lacking a formal fashion education, Fortgens’ degree in industrial design lends to a different approach to design, unbridled by the common concepts taught in fashion school. Across his collections you’ll see raw hems, inside-out construction, uneven button placement, and misplaced waistbands; all with the intention of subverting menswear norms. Personally I can appreciate the intentional “unfinished” looks on a lot of these pieces, some I’d avoid but generally I think it’s done in a tasteful and relatively novel fashion.

---

What I’m Feeling This Week

Where I share any joy-sparking entities, arts, activities that’ve made my week.

The Apartment

On my way back from London, I crushed three movies back to back. The first was Rosemary’s Baby (trying to shield your seat neighbour from a blood orgy scene is a unique experience), and the last was Paul Schrader’s “Affliction”. Sandwiched between those two pretty grim movies was one of my new favourite feel-good gems, Billy Wilder’s 1960 film The Apartment. Based in NYC at the turn of the decade, it follows worker-bee desk-jockey C.C. Baxter and his ambitions for a corner office. I don’t want to spoil too much of the premise but it’s affable, witty, tear-drawing at times, and has aged marvellously relative to its contemporaries. You should watch it.

The Sundays

Now for a little music recommendation - The Sundays were an alternative rock band coming out of Bristol, England in the early 90s. Lead singer Harriet Wheeler and guitarist David Gavurin formed the band in 1988, but didn’t release their first album, “Reading, Writing and Arithmeric”, until 1990 where it charted at no.5 in the UK. They have a dreamy, indie-pop sound driven by Wheeler’s gushing vocals and Gavurin’s warm playing style. My favourites include Cry, Life Goes On, and You’re Not The Only One I Know. Check ‘em out!

Roasted Potatoes

Finally, let me put you onto my favourite way to cook the greatest root vegetable known to man. I make these roast potatoes on a weekly basis during the winter, and it’s one of the few things that keeps me sane. Cut your desired amount of baby potatoes in half and par-boil them in generously salted water until they’re fork-tender. While that’s boiling, preheat the oven to 425 with your baking dish inside. When the potatoes are finished, drain out all the water, then put the potatoes back in the pot, shake the pot vigorously until the edges of the potatoes appear fluffed. Remove your baking dish and add in the fat of your choosing (I love using rendered out duck, goose, or chicken fat), and season the potatoes with salt, pepper, and a little MSG. Cook on the bottom rack for 25-30 minutes, then remove the potatoes, sprinkle some rosemary and/or thyme, and minced garlic atop, then stick the tray back in the oven until the garlic and herbs have browned. Finally, you can top with grated parmesan, some chopped chives, and if you want to really do it right, some bits of bacon. Bon appetit.

Rotation #11

---