My 20 Favourite Overcoats
Plus some tips for finding affordable vintage examples.
Look, I don’t buy into the #menswear elitist take that “puffer jackets look like shit”, HOWEVER, a well-fitting overcoat is objectively more flattering and very elegant. It’s one of the few items of clothing that immediately makes you stand up straighter once you wear it. I love wearing my overcoat out on a cold winter’s day, and I break it out as soon as I’m able.
In order to spread the gospel on good-looking, well-made overcoats, I’ve put together a list of my favourite examples across the industry. You’ll notice that this is a spendy, expensive list, but not without good reason. Like suits, a good overcoat is made in a tailoring factory, with high-quality worsted fabrics and strict quality control measures - it’s not nearly as forgiving as other garments. Therefore, if you want that good shit that’ll last you ‘till climate change wipes out winter all-together, you’re gonna have to spend some dough. If your budget can’t stretch that far, fret not, as there is thousands of incredible examples on the 2nd hand market, which I provide a full guide on at the bottom of this list.
When it comes to the style itself, it’s important to consider a few different factors. Regarding fabric, I personally love some texture from a tweed, herringbone, or even a brushed flannel. Colour wise, you can’t go wrong with a charcoal grey, a rich, cool brown, or even a classic camel. Navy can feel a little wall-street, but not if there’s some interesting design details. And speaking of design details, there’s all sorts of variation that can add intrigue to the garment: collared or lapel neck opening, peak/notch lapels, covered buttons, belted waist, double breasted front, raglan sleeve. Finally, when it comes to length and fit, I think an overcoat should go past the wearer’s knee, and have enough room in the shoulders so that you’re not “popping” out of it. If you disagree, let me know in the comments below. Now, let’s get into some recommendations.
Universal Works Alpaca Stripe Account Coat
This first example is an exception to my take on overcoat length. While I tend to prefer a below-the-knee coat, I think the large variegated stripe pattern, and more casual patch-flap pockets suit this length well.
Studio Nicholson Notch Coat
As I mentioned above - a navy overcoat CAN feel a bit “Wallstreet”, however I think this example from Studio Nicholson avoids that impression with a wide berth. The intense, angular silhouette feels dramatic when contrasted with the single button closure and simple notch lapels. It’s truly a statement in shape.
LE17SEPTEMBRE High Neck Coat
This isn’t a far cry from my daily driver, a belted balmacaan from the (now defunct) Schnayderman’s. The stand collar is a rare yet elegant feature on a men’s overcoat, and it pairs wonderfully with the oversized patch pockets and adjustable cuffs. But the standout feature is the belt which allows you to play with silhouette like nothing else.
Our Legacy Whale Coat
I’m after something like this for my own closet - double breasted, peak lapels, and the perfect below-the-knee length. While a medium-grey can look cheap on a wimpy overcoat design, the Whale coat’s bold features nullify any comparison.
Kaptain Sunshine Traveller Coat
Loaded with features, the Kaptain Sunshine Traveler coat takes the classic balmacaan formula - point collar, raglan sleeve, throat latch, and adds on some cargo style flap pockets. A tremendous staple piece made to a beautiful spec.